Mapo Tofu Spaghetti

Prepare the mapo tofu sauce: If the tofu came as a block in water, discard the water. Cut the tofu into large chunks, then use a stand blender or immersion blender to blend the tofu into an ivory smoothie.

In a medium (3- or 4-quart) pot over medium heat, toast the Sichuan peppercorns for 2 to 3 minutes, until super fragrant and slightly darkened. Let cool briefly, then pound with a mortar and pestle or pulse in a spice grinder.

Warm the oil in the pot over high heat. When shimmering, add the meat. Stir and mash into cooked and crumbly pieces, 1 to 2 minutes. Add 2 1/2 tablespoons doubanjiang, the douchi (if using), ginger and red-pepper flakes (if using). Fry about 2 minutes longer, stirring constantly, until the mixture is a rich reddish brown.

Reduce the heat to medium-low, then stir in the soy sauce and sugar. Scrape in the blended tofu. Stir to combine well, partly cover and bring to a simmer. Cook for about 3 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Taste the sauce and if needed, add the remaining 1/2 tablespoon doubanjiang (for heat), or a pinch of salt (for savoriness) or sugar (to tame heat).

Stir in the scallions, then add the cornstarch slurry and stir until thickened. Turn off the heat. Stir in half the crushed Sichuan peppercorns. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes to deepen flavor.

Prepare the spaghetti: Fill a large pot with water and add 1 tablespoon of salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then add the spaghetti and boil until al dente. Ladle out about 3/4 cup of pasta cooking water, then drain the spaghetti.

In the same pot, warm the tofu sauce and 1/3 cup of the reserved pasta cooking water over medium heat. When hot and bubbling, add the spaghetti and use tongs to stir and coat the strands. Add extra pasta water by the tablespoon for a creamier finish, if desired.

Stir in the scallion and cook very briefly until just softened. Divide the pasta among plates or shallow bowls and serve topped with the cheese and the remaining ground peppercorns.